Mice do not need a hole that looks like a hole. A house has dozens of small openings built into it, for pipes, cables, ventilation and doors, and most of them are big enough. This is the inventory of the routes they use most.
A mouse can squeeze through a gap roughly the width of a pencil, about 6mm. Its skull is the widest hard part of its body, and if the head fits, the rest follows. That is why a gap that looks far too small to matter often turns out to be the whole problem.
Rats need noticeably bigger openings. So when people say they have checked the house and there is nowhere a mouse could get in, they have usually been looking for something the size of a fist, not the size of a pencil.
Every pipe and cable that passes through an outside wall leaves a gap round it, and these are the most common routes of all.
Older airbricks with wide or broken openings let mice into the void under a suspended floor, and from there they come up beside pipes and behind skirting. Weep vents in cavity walls can do the same. Airbricks must never simply be blocked, because they ventilate the floor; they are covered with fine metal mesh instead.
The gap under an external door, particularly a back door or a door into the garage, is often wider than it looks at the corners. Worn door brushes, gaps round cat flaps and loose frames all count.
Garages, utility rooms and conservatories are built to a looser standard than the main house and often connect to it through a shared wall full of pipe runs. Mice get into the garage easily, then find the gap where a pipe or cable passes into the house. Extensions add another weak point where new walls meet old.
Mice climb well. Rough brickwork, ivy, drainpipes and climbing plants all give them a way up to the eaves, where gaps behind fascia boards, missing mortar at the roof edge and loose tiles lead straight into the loft.
In terraces, semis and flats, mice also move between homes through shared lofts, floor voids and the space round shared service pipes. The route in may start next door, which is why a block or terrace sometimes needs more than one home looked at.
Finally, some mice are simply carried in: inside boxes brought back from a garage or shed, sacks of bird seed or pet food, firewood, or furniture that has been in storage.
Most houses have more than one possible route. The one that matters is the one the mice are actually using, and that is found by the evidence round it: droppings, smears and gnawing at the gap.
Knowing the list is the start. Working out which gap your mice are using is covered on our page about tracing the way in on your own property, and the materials that stop mice chewing straight back through are in how to mouse-proof your home.
Roughly the width of a pencil, about 6mm. If a mouse can get its head through, the rest of its body follows.
Yes. Rough brick, render, ivy and drainpipes all give them a way up to the eaves and roof edge, so a loft can be reached without any gap at ground level.
No. Airbricks ventilate the space under the floor, and blocking them can lead to damp. They are covered with fine metal mesh so air still passes but mice cannot.
In terraces, semis and flats, often. Shared lofts, floor voids and service runs connect homes, so the source may not be your house at all.
Gaps round pipes and cables where they pass through an outside wall, especially under the kitchen sink and behind the boiler and washing machine.
Twenty Berkshire towns, each with its own page written for that place.
Mice control is a fixed £260, confirmed with you before anything is booked. Tell us where you have seen droppings or heard noises, which rooms are affected, and whether there are children or pets in the house, and we will come back to you.
Mice control is a fixed £260, confirmed with you before anything is booked. Ring or send the form and tell us where you have seen the signs.